Setting the Scene

The Scene

Zipolite Beach is the largest of a string of beaches on a road that runs along the Pacific coast to the south of the main coastal highway, between Puerto Escondido and Bahias de Huatulco, in the state of Oaxaca, Mexico. It is slightly west of the picturesque fishing village of Puerto Angel. Because the entire road is “off the beaten track”, the beaches, notably Zipolite and the village of Puerto Angel have remained much as Acapulco must have been before “The Night of the Iguana” was filmed. Still, civilization has arrived, somewhat unseen though, in that cell phone coverage for all Mexican carriers, and for AT&T-GSM service, is now available; while an ATM has recently opened in Puerto Angel. Pristine Zipolite beach is more than a mile long and is mostly 100 to 150 feet wide, even at high tide. However, dangerous riptides may require endurance and strength of those who venture too far into the water. The beach is oriented towards the south and hence has, both, a sunrise, to the left and a sunset, to the right. Clothing is optional on Zipolite beach, a choice that entices some to “take it all off”. The only community on the beach is on its western end: “Roca Blanca”. It has one paved road, parallel to the beach, where almost all establishments are located: small restaurants, “mom and pop” grocery stores, internet and regular cafes and a bakery. The community’s authentic and peaceful nature has attracted some entrepreneurs over the years, so the sprinkling of restaurants offers not only Mexican food, but also French, Italian and the generic “International”. Unfortunately, hurricane "Carlotta" hit the area in June of 2012 and damaged many of the areas' establishments.

Sunset on Zipolite Beach

Resting

Typical Beachside Restaurant and Bar

Main Street Roca Blanca

An Establishment on Main Street

(click any image)

Rancho los Mangos is the pie shaped area, with the swimming pool in the center of the Google Earth picture above. The more than 5 ha [13 acre] orchard is located just in-land from the beach, behind the community of Roca Blanca. It is far enough from the beach not to have any salt spray while the sound of the surf is muted. The Rancho is fully enclosed by a wall, with several gates. All guests get a key to the rear gate that gives access to Roca Blanca and the beach, since all gates are locked at night. The property was acquired, in the seventies, by a business man from the state’s capital, also called Oaxaca. Over the years he has planted a mango and a coconut tree orchard, as well as over 25 other different varieties of, mostly fruit, trees. He has also developed the property as a week-end retreat for himself and his family, complete with three villas, paved and lighted roads, a superb swimming pool, water supply from the rancho’s own wells and fast, DSL based, WIFI. Recently he has been enticed to open the property for paying guests, the amenities for which are on subsequent pages with hot links below. The full address is:

The Rancho on Google Earth

Swimming Pool

One of the 27 Trees Labelled

Rancho los Mangos
Carretera Puerto Angel - Zipolite S/N
Colonia Roca Blanca
Phone: + (52) (958) 584-3076 [Spanish only]
e-mail: info@rancholosmangos.com
GPS Location: 15.66616 N, 96.51982 W - near sea level

The area has many other attractions, reachable on foot, by bicycle or with one of the ubiquitous taxis or “colectivos”. Of course, scuba diving and fishing come easy and naturally, with or without some local assistance. Not to be missed is the Monday market in Pochutla, about 7 miles on the road to Oaxaca, a real regional market, not a tourist trap. A two day trip to Oaxaca city, over a sinuous mountain route, is justified if only by that city’s spectacular museum housed in a magnificently restored 16th. century monastery, while a stroll over its “Zocalo”, or central square, and a dinner at one of its many excellent restaurants, will round off an unforgettable visit. Just west of Zipolite is the beach of San Agustinillo with some of the best sea food restaurants in the area. The next beach is Mazunte, home to the National Mexican Turtle Center, see its web site at: http://centromexicanodelatortuga.org/ . The most western beach on the same loop road that passes Zipolite is “Playa Ventanilla”, endless and empty. A fresh water swamp parallels that beach for miles, a paradise for birds and crocodiles, all of which can be visited with a local inhabitant and his, or her, canoe. The cordillera that runs parallel to the ocean allows for many excursions, to splendid view points from towns in the coffee growing area or to natural pools in rain forests, such as those shown in the picture above.

Puerto Angel Fishermen

In the National Turtle Center

San Agustinillo Beach

Turtle Hatchery Playa Ventanilla

Magic Waterfalls

The table above shows that the weather in Huatulco, over the 2009/2010 winter season has been consistently better than that in Cancun: average temperatures were higher, but still very comfortable, average humidity was lower, so was wind speed, with the exception of February. Most notable are the high numbers of rainy days in Cancun, combined with occasional thunderstorms and fog.

When traveling by car or RV, Zipolite is a good day’s drive south of Acapulco, on the coastal highway 200. At km 198, coming from Puerto Escondido there is an exit to the right, marked for Mazunte and Zipolite. This is the western end of the road that runs along the beaches, including Zipolite. The road rejoins route 200 at km 238, further east and close to Pochutla. Zipolite is the beach after San Agustinillo, while Rancho los Mangos is identifiable by the long grey wall on your right when coming down the hill onto the Zipolite area, actually Colonia Roca Blanca. Coastal buses stop at the crossroads of the “Puerto Angel/Zipolite road” and route 200, close to Pochutla. From that point a taxi should be taken to Zipolite and the Rancho. Busses also run from Oaxaca city to Pochutla, after which again a taxi is preferred for the last leg to Zipolite. The international airport of Bahias de Huatulco, code HUX, see picture above, is 45 minutes by car, east of Zipolite. When so requested arriving guests will be met by a taxi arranged for by the Rancho. Huatulco is served with several flights daily from Mexico City, by Aeromexico and Mexicana airlines, as well as with direct flights from Houston, by United Airlines. An alternative airport is the one in Puerto Escondido, code PXM, about one hour west of Zipolite, by car. This airport, though, is served only by domestic, Mexican, flights, mostly from, and to, Mexico City.

Huatulco Airport

Accommodations, their descriptions, rates and reservation forms can be found by clicking on the pertinent buttons below:

Summary: Zipolite beach is a mile long beach off the beaten track, on Oaxaca’s Pacific coast in Mexico. The beach and its adjacent communities are “old Mexico”. Rancho los Mangos is a 5 ha. fruit orchard, a few hundred feet inland from the beach. It has been developed by its owner as a week-end retreat for the family, complete with swimming pool, villas, well water supply and, since recently, fast DSL based WIFI. A small number of RVs, of any size, as well as tents, can be accommodated and can be serviced with power, water and sewer connections. The discerning family can rent one of the contemporary villas or apartments, or stay in more modest accommodations in the swimming pool annex.